Showing posts with label planning. Show all posts
Showing posts with label planning. Show all posts
Thursday, March 12, 2009
This Wealth Management Blog Has Moved
Please visit www.wechterfinancial.com and click on Financial Briefs and Featured News for more outstanding articles on Financial Planning and Investment Management.
Thursday, January 29, 2009
Thinking About Munis? Make Sure You’re Making Wise Picks
Municipal bonds have long been a safe haven for higher-income investors looking for safety and greater tax efficiency. The credit squeeze put the municipal bond market through its paces like other competing markets this year, but it may be time to take a second look at both municipal bonds and muni bond funds.
Let’s start with a definition of what a municipal bond is. A municipal bond, or muni, is a bond issued by a local government or their agencies to raise funds for a host of reasons tied to keeping the government going. The potential issuers may include cities, counties, redevelopment agencies, water and sewer projects, school districts, publicly owned airports, seaports and other transportation entities. They pay for everything from immediate government expenses to new roads and various public projects. Municipal bonds come in two flavors—general obligation bonds and revenue bonds. General obligation bonds are intended to raise immediate capital to cover government expenses; revenue bonds are the ones that fund infrastructure projects.
As an incentive for investors to buy these bonds, interest income is often exempt from federal income tax as well as the income tax of the state in which they are issued. Mutual funds that invest in municipal bonds also offer the same tax treatment.
This year has held lots of excitement for muni investors and those who were hoping to be. The credit crunch sucker-punched funding sources for public projects as well as private investments–many municipalities ended up dropping certain projects because investors weren’t there to buy the paper and other sources of financing had dried up as well.
Who’s fled the muni market? Hedge funds, issuers of structured notes and municipal bond mutual funds trying to keep up with redemptions from tapped-out investors. Right now, the best source of demand for munis is individuals, who can account for only so much business. But in the absence of other buyers, that’s potentially good news for you.
Keep in mind that even during the Great Depression, no state defaulted on its general-obligation bonds, and while some munis have defaulted, overall, such defaults are very, very rare.
So where’s the opportunity for you? Look at some of the highly rated outstanding bonds. You’ll find some amazing yields that you certainly won’t find in CDs and other investments. Even though their prices have plunged, some municipals late last year were offering long-term, tax-free yields of five percent and above, which translate into the equivalent of nearly seven percent for taxpayers in the 28 percent bracket and nearly eight percent for someone in the top 35 percent bracket when the tax exemption is considered.
That’s a very nice return relative to U.S. Treasuries, considered the safest investments of all.
But before you buy, here are some things to know and steps to follow.
Are munis right for you? The first call you make shouldn’t be to a broker. It should be to your tax professional and your financial adviser. A CERTIFIED FINANCIAL PLANNER™ professional can take a look at your entire taxable investment portfolio (there’s no point in putting tax-exempt munis into tax-exempt accounts like IRAs or 401(k)s) and determine whether they’re the right approach to take for your investments.
What munis are in trouble? There are some governments who issued a hybrid muni known as a variable-rate demand note. These were sold mainly to institutions with maturities of up to 30 years that were paying at rates reset as frequently as once a day. During the crisis, the rates on these notes have shot up to double-digit territory, putting the municipalities that issued them under particular strain due to short-term interest rates that can be reset as frequently as once a day.
Keep an eye peeled for the AMT: While most munis pay interest that’s free from federal income taxes, some may pay rates that are subject to the alternative minimum tax, known as the AMT. It’s a little more complicated than we have space for here, but this is absolutely why you need to talk to your tax professional or financial planner before making a move into munis.
Don’t forget to ladder: “Laddering” is a portfolio structuring term. To ladder bonds means that you are buying them with maturities occurring at regular intervals, so when they mature, you’ll have money to reinvest at those same regular intervals.
Watch those ratings: Yes, the main private investment ratings firms–Moody’s and Standard & Poor’s among them–have been in the doghouse for rating many battered investments highly, not just munis. But most municipals rated AA or AAA are generally safe to consider. It’s also important to check the issuer’s long-term ratings history. If they’ve been consistently highly ranked over decades and the municipality has no financial scandal (something that can be checked through news archives on the Internet), that’s another good way to research a bond issuer before making a purchase.
January 2009 — This column is produced by the Financial Planning Association, the membership organization for the financial planning community, and is provided by, a local member of FPA.
Let’s start with a definition of what a municipal bond is. A municipal bond, or muni, is a bond issued by a local government or their agencies to raise funds for a host of reasons tied to keeping the government going. The potential issuers may include cities, counties, redevelopment agencies, water and sewer projects, school districts, publicly owned airports, seaports and other transportation entities. They pay for everything from immediate government expenses to new roads and various public projects. Municipal bonds come in two flavors—general obligation bonds and revenue bonds. General obligation bonds are intended to raise immediate capital to cover government expenses; revenue bonds are the ones that fund infrastructure projects.
As an incentive for investors to buy these bonds, interest income is often exempt from federal income tax as well as the income tax of the state in which they are issued. Mutual funds that invest in municipal bonds also offer the same tax treatment.
This year has held lots of excitement for muni investors and those who were hoping to be. The credit crunch sucker-punched funding sources for public projects as well as private investments–many municipalities ended up dropping certain projects because investors weren’t there to buy the paper and other sources of financing had dried up as well.
Who’s fled the muni market? Hedge funds, issuers of structured notes and municipal bond mutual funds trying to keep up with redemptions from tapped-out investors. Right now, the best source of demand for munis is individuals, who can account for only so much business. But in the absence of other buyers, that’s potentially good news for you.
Keep in mind that even during the Great Depression, no state defaulted on its general-obligation bonds, and while some munis have defaulted, overall, such defaults are very, very rare.
So where’s the opportunity for you? Look at some of the highly rated outstanding bonds. You’ll find some amazing yields that you certainly won’t find in CDs and other investments. Even though their prices have plunged, some municipals late last year were offering long-term, tax-free yields of five percent and above, which translate into the equivalent of nearly seven percent for taxpayers in the 28 percent bracket and nearly eight percent for someone in the top 35 percent bracket when the tax exemption is considered.
That’s a very nice return relative to U.S. Treasuries, considered the safest investments of all.
But before you buy, here are some things to know and steps to follow.
Are munis right for you? The first call you make shouldn’t be to a broker. It should be to your tax professional and your financial adviser. A CERTIFIED FINANCIAL PLANNER™ professional can take a look at your entire taxable investment portfolio (there’s no point in putting tax-exempt munis into tax-exempt accounts like IRAs or 401(k)s) and determine whether they’re the right approach to take for your investments.
What munis are in trouble? There are some governments who issued a hybrid muni known as a variable-rate demand note. These were sold mainly to institutions with maturities of up to 30 years that were paying at rates reset as frequently as once a day. During the crisis, the rates on these notes have shot up to double-digit territory, putting the municipalities that issued them under particular strain due to short-term interest rates that can be reset as frequently as once a day.
Keep an eye peeled for the AMT: While most munis pay interest that’s free from federal income taxes, some may pay rates that are subject to the alternative minimum tax, known as the AMT. It’s a little more complicated than we have space for here, but this is absolutely why you need to talk to your tax professional or financial planner before making a move into munis.
Don’t forget to ladder: “Laddering” is a portfolio structuring term. To ladder bonds means that you are buying them with maturities occurring at regular intervals, so when they mature, you’ll have money to reinvest at those same regular intervals.
Watch those ratings: Yes, the main private investment ratings firms–Moody’s and Standard & Poor’s among them–have been in the doghouse for rating many battered investments highly, not just munis. But most municipals rated AA or AAA are generally safe to consider. It’s also important to check the issuer’s long-term ratings history. If they’ve been consistently highly ranked over decades and the municipality has no financial scandal (something that can be checked through news archives on the Internet), that’s another good way to research a bond issuer before making a purchase.
January 2009 — This column is produced by the Financial Planning Association, the membership organization for the financial planning community, and is provided by, a local member of FPA.
Friday, January 23, 2009
One Good Thing about a Tough Market—It’s a Good Environment for Roth IRA Conversions
Most of us will not start the New Year happy about our investments. But if you are looking for a bright spot, it’s not a particularly bad time to consider converting a traditional IRA to a Roth IRA.
Right now, anyone with modified adjusted gross income of less than $100,000 a year (individual or joint income) can convert a traditional IRA account to a Roth IRA. Higher-income Americans will get the same break in 2010 if Congress doesn’t reverse its 2006 approval of provisions in the Tax Increase Prevention and Reconciliation Act of 2005 (TIPRA).
Keep in mind that this also might be a good idea for people who were also unemployed or disabled during the past year and therefore had lower income. Talk to your tax professional about doing a full or partial Roth IRA conversion.
Remember that when you do a conversion, you must pay income tax on the amount you are converting, which can be all of the funds in the traditional IRA or just a portion of those assets. But, subject to certain restrictions, you won’t pay tax when you finally need to withdraw your money. That’s where the silver lining comes in for you or for your heirs if you pass that money on to them.
Take another look at your statements and how much your investments are down. Assuming that the markets perform historically and fight their way back, your tax-free amount available for withdrawal could accumulate significantly under that Roth status.
The conversion issue is a potentially attractive retirement and estate-planning idea for all Americans who want to make sure they maximize the assets they have for themselves and for their heirs on a tax-free basis. But anyone considering such a move—regardless of his or her income status—should first review their current retirement asset strategy with a tax or financial adviser such as a CERTIFIED FINANCIAL PLANNER™ professional.
Things to consider:
The difference between a traditional IRA and a Roth IRA: Traditional IRAs allow investors to save money tax-deferred with deductible contributions (within certain income limits if either spouse is eligible for a qualified plan at work) until they’re ready to begin withdrawals anytime between age 59 ½ and 70 ½. Roth IRAs don’t allow tax-deductible contributions, but they allow tax-free withdrawal of funds with no mandatory distribution age and allow these assets to pass to heirs tax-free as well. If you leave your savings in the Roth for at least five years and wait until you're 59 1/2 to take withdrawals, you'll never pay taxes on the gains. You can convert a traditional IRA to a Roth, but you must pay taxes on any pre-tax contributions, plus any gains.
Time to retirement matters: If you have more than five years until you plan to withdraw your retirement funds, conversion of traditional IRA assets to a Roth IRA might make sense. The longer the time span where earnings can grow tax deferred, the greater the benefit of being able to withdraw those earnings without paying tax on them.
Your tax rate at retirement is important: Many people, such as business owners, may be paying taxes now at a fairly low rate. So they might pay higher taxes at retirement. If that’s the case, converting to a Roth might make a lot of sense. Additionally, with Social Security benefits being taxable at certain income levels, Roth IRAs can allow you to limit or eliminate such taxes.
A Roth conversion can be expensive: You’ll have to pay taxes on contributions that you previously deducted, as well as taxes on the accumulated earnings. Also, you need to be aware that conversion could push you into a higher tax bracket, especially if you've accumulated sizeable earnings over the years. This is why a conversion needs to be planned with a tax expert. Why? It may trigger the Alternative Minimum Tax (AMT) due to those high earnings.
January 2009 — This column is produced by the Financial Planning Association, the membership organization for the financial planning community, and is provided by, a local member of FPA.
Right now, anyone with modified adjusted gross income of less than $100,000 a year (individual or joint income) can convert a traditional IRA account to a Roth IRA. Higher-income Americans will get the same break in 2010 if Congress doesn’t reverse its 2006 approval of provisions in the Tax Increase Prevention and Reconciliation Act of 2005 (TIPRA).
Keep in mind that this also might be a good idea for people who were also unemployed or disabled during the past year and therefore had lower income. Talk to your tax professional about doing a full or partial Roth IRA conversion.
Remember that when you do a conversion, you must pay income tax on the amount you are converting, which can be all of the funds in the traditional IRA or just a portion of those assets. But, subject to certain restrictions, you won’t pay tax when you finally need to withdraw your money. That’s where the silver lining comes in for you or for your heirs if you pass that money on to them.
Take another look at your statements and how much your investments are down. Assuming that the markets perform historically and fight their way back, your tax-free amount available for withdrawal could accumulate significantly under that Roth status.
The conversion issue is a potentially attractive retirement and estate-planning idea for all Americans who want to make sure they maximize the assets they have for themselves and for their heirs on a tax-free basis. But anyone considering such a move—regardless of his or her income status—should first review their current retirement asset strategy with a tax or financial adviser such as a CERTIFIED FINANCIAL PLANNER™ professional.
Things to consider:
The difference between a traditional IRA and a Roth IRA: Traditional IRAs allow investors to save money tax-deferred with deductible contributions (within certain income limits if either spouse is eligible for a qualified plan at work) until they’re ready to begin withdrawals anytime between age 59 ½ and 70 ½. Roth IRAs don’t allow tax-deductible contributions, but they allow tax-free withdrawal of funds with no mandatory distribution age and allow these assets to pass to heirs tax-free as well. If you leave your savings in the Roth for at least five years and wait until you're 59 1/2 to take withdrawals, you'll never pay taxes on the gains. You can convert a traditional IRA to a Roth, but you must pay taxes on any pre-tax contributions, plus any gains.
Time to retirement matters: If you have more than five years until you plan to withdraw your retirement funds, conversion of traditional IRA assets to a Roth IRA might make sense. The longer the time span where earnings can grow tax deferred, the greater the benefit of being able to withdraw those earnings without paying tax on them.
Your tax rate at retirement is important: Many people, such as business owners, may be paying taxes now at a fairly low rate. So they might pay higher taxes at retirement. If that’s the case, converting to a Roth might make a lot of sense. Additionally, with Social Security benefits being taxable at certain income levels, Roth IRAs can allow you to limit or eliminate such taxes.
A Roth conversion can be expensive: You’ll have to pay taxes on contributions that you previously deducted, as well as taxes on the accumulated earnings. Also, you need to be aware that conversion could push you into a higher tax bracket, especially if you've accumulated sizeable earnings over the years. This is why a conversion needs to be planned with a tax expert. Why? It may trigger the Alternative Minimum Tax (AMT) due to those high earnings.
January 2009 — This column is produced by the Financial Planning Association, the membership organization for the financial planning community, and is provided by, a local member of FPA.
Friday, January 16, 2009
Whether You Call It a Budget or a Spending Plan, It’s a Good Way to Start 2009
Granted, the New Year is a time for best intentions. People vow to stick to a diet, knuckle down at work, spend more quality time with people they care about, start scratching off that long list of key chores around the house, and of course, keep a closer watch on their pocketbook.
If you find you can do only one of these things, focus on that last item–making and sticking to a budget. It might help you handle the rest of those resolutions:
If you find you can do only one of these things, focus on that last item–making and sticking to a budget. It might help you handle the rest of those resolutions:
- Being in control of one’s finances reduces stress. Stress can make people eat more and spend more.
- Having a spending plan in place means you’ll have already prioritized the key activities, expenditures and projects you’ll need to make for the year and the money you’ll need to afford them.
- Spending less time worrying about money means you’ll have more time to think about the people in your life.
Here are some ideas you may want to incorporate into that process.
Don’t be afraid to ask for help: Do you know where you need to be? A financial planner can ask the right questions and develop a customized plan to figure out your starting point and where you’ll finish based on your age, earnings potential and the new habits you’ll develop.
Start tracking every dime you spend: Whether you do it with a pen and a notebook or a computer program, make a concerted effort to track your everyday spending. Physicians say overweight people should track every morsel of food they eat; with money, it’s the same thing. Knowing where every penny goes gives a quick picture where certain pennies can be saved or invested.
Prioritize… When it comes to spending, there are needs and wants. Try this exercise. You can do this on a big 2009 desk calendar (or an electronic calendar that allows space for lots of notes to yourself). Mark down at the appropriate dates and times of the year items for which you need to spend and those for which you want to spend. What are needs? In part, food (not carryout or restaurant meals), monthly mortgage, tuition, auto or rent payments; monthly utilities; home, auto, life or disability insurance; retirement savings; property taxes and credit card payments. What are wants? Non-essential items like vacations, non-essential home improvement projects, restaurant meals (you can cook at home) or treats like clothing splurges or electronics. Compare these total expenditures to your total income. What will this crowded calendar tell you? That by attacking debt, making certain sacrifices and spending and saving smarter, you can eventually un-crowd that calendar and your financial life.
…then zero in each month: There has to be a living, breathing side to budgeting that accommodates change. Do this: Near the end of each month, make a list of the specific “needs” and “wants” you’ll face next month, and figure out how much money you’ll have for wants after needs are addressed. For example, if your car needs a necessary repair, that’s certainly going to boost the “needs” side of the page. If you find due to a one-time event (paying off a particular credit card, for example) that you have more to spend in the “wants” column, then it’s time to decide whether it’s time for a treat or to throw more into savings, investments or attacking any other debt.
Identify and plan for long-term goals: You need to think about the things you really want to do with your life and what those things will cost. Putting goals in writing gives them a formality and a starting point for the planning you must do. If these goals require saving, make sure you put those savings dates on the financial calendar you made.
Build failure and recovery into the plan: How many diets have evaporated with the words, “I blew it!” The fact is, with food or money; everyone goes off course at times. The important thing is to have a plan for corrective action – if you’re about to make an impulse purchase; implement a three-day spending rule. That means you should give yourself three days to check your budget and think through the purchase before you make it. If you can minimize the damage and get back on course, your progress will continue.
January 2009 — This column is produced by the Financial Planning Association, the membership organization for the financial planning community, and is provided by, a local member of FPA.
Friday, January 9, 2009
Consumer Borrowing in 2009 Will Mean Making a Plan
If you’re planning to buy a home or a car in 2009, the process is going to be a lot tougher without an excellent credit score and a significant down payment. So that means you’re going to have to work harder—and possibly wait a little longer—to make those key purchases.
What’s a good credit score? According to credit scoring giant Fair Isaac Corp., the best FICO score range as of late 2008 stood at 760-850, according to reports; that minimum is roughly 20 points higher than it would have been a year ago.
Barring any major federal action to loosen up these markets on the consumer level, these factors make it particularly important to make sure there are no skeletons in your credit closet.
The Federal Reserve Board’s statistics show that outstanding consumer credit has increased from a bit more than $2 trillion in 2003 to $2.5 trillion by the end of the second quarter of 2008, representing a 25 percent increase over five years. These high levels of debt, combined with a global credit crunch, have tightened up lending to all but the best customers–and they’re having trouble too.
If you have extraordinarily high debt levels, a record of late payments or very little money to put down on that home or car, you need to do some advance planning before you contact any lenders. Here are issues you need to incorporate into your planning:
Get some advice: You might be focused on paying down debt or saving up your down payment, but credit is only one part of your lifetime financial picture. It might be a good idea to talk with a tax professional or a financial planner to learn how to best use credit. It’s always good to determine what your limits should be.
Pay down the balances you have: Next year, Fair Isaac Corp., the company that created the FICO score, will be adjusting the way it computes its credit scores. One of the top changes will be a greater negative weight on credit utilization–how close you get to the borrowing limit of each of your accounts. The company says that for optimal scoring, each account’s outstanding credit should be no more than 50 percent of the credit line and hopefully less. As you’re paying down your balances, it’s wise to focus on the highest-rate credit cards or loans first.
Set a credit report review schedule: You have the right to get all three of your credit reports—from Experian, TransUnion and Equifax—once a year for free. You can do so by ordering them at www.annualcreditreport.com. Don't order all three of them at the same time, though. By spreading out the dates you receive each of your credit reports, you'll get a continuous view of how your credit picture looks because the three bureaus feed each other the latest information. It's a good way to clean up errors and keep a steady watch for identity theft. By the way, all those ads that advertise free credit reports? Most of them will demand a credit card number from you, which means at some point those reports won’t be free. The aforementioned Web site is the best place to get reports that are truly free of charge.
Pay on time and pay more than the minimum. If you’ve been late with payments or have stuck only to paying the minimums, it’s time to give that up now. Here’s what you do. To avoid late payments, note the due dates when the bills arrive and then set a date for payment five to seven days ahead so you’ll definitely be able to mail your payment on time. To put more toward the balance, finally do a budget–this will help you identify the non-essential spending you’ve been doing so you can pay your outstanding credit balances faster.
Cut up cards, but don't close the account: Closing accounts—even those that have had zero balances for years—is a bad idea. Lenders want to see a long record of responsible credit management, and longtime accounts that you haven't touched in years may actually help your score because it shows you have some restraint.
No-doc or low-doc loans? Find another way: If you are self-employed or otherwise don’t have a lot of verifiable income, you may have the most trouble getting a loan. While banks and other lenders two years ago might have bent over backwards to lend to people with unverifiable income, that gravy train is mostly over now. If you do get a loan, you’ll pay far more for it than you would have before the credit markets blew up.
January 2009 — This column is produced by the Financial Planning Association, the membership organization for the financial planning community, and is provided by, a local member of FPA.
What’s a good credit score? According to credit scoring giant Fair Isaac Corp., the best FICO score range as of late 2008 stood at 760-850, according to reports; that minimum is roughly 20 points higher than it would have been a year ago.
Barring any major federal action to loosen up these markets on the consumer level, these factors make it particularly important to make sure there are no skeletons in your credit closet.
The Federal Reserve Board’s statistics show that outstanding consumer credit has increased from a bit more than $2 trillion in 2003 to $2.5 trillion by the end of the second quarter of 2008, representing a 25 percent increase over five years. These high levels of debt, combined with a global credit crunch, have tightened up lending to all but the best customers–and they’re having trouble too.
If you have extraordinarily high debt levels, a record of late payments or very little money to put down on that home or car, you need to do some advance planning before you contact any lenders. Here are issues you need to incorporate into your planning:
Get some advice: You might be focused on paying down debt or saving up your down payment, but credit is only one part of your lifetime financial picture. It might be a good idea to talk with a tax professional or a financial planner to learn how to best use credit. It’s always good to determine what your limits should be.
Pay down the balances you have: Next year, Fair Isaac Corp., the company that created the FICO score, will be adjusting the way it computes its credit scores. One of the top changes will be a greater negative weight on credit utilization–how close you get to the borrowing limit of each of your accounts. The company says that for optimal scoring, each account’s outstanding credit should be no more than 50 percent of the credit line and hopefully less. As you’re paying down your balances, it’s wise to focus on the highest-rate credit cards or loans first.
Set a credit report review schedule: You have the right to get all three of your credit reports—from Experian, TransUnion and Equifax—once a year for free. You can do so by ordering them at www.annualcreditreport.com. Don't order all three of them at the same time, though. By spreading out the dates you receive each of your credit reports, you'll get a continuous view of how your credit picture looks because the three bureaus feed each other the latest information. It's a good way to clean up errors and keep a steady watch for identity theft. By the way, all those ads that advertise free credit reports? Most of them will demand a credit card number from you, which means at some point those reports won’t be free. The aforementioned Web site is the best place to get reports that are truly free of charge.
Pay on time and pay more than the minimum. If you’ve been late with payments or have stuck only to paying the minimums, it’s time to give that up now. Here’s what you do. To avoid late payments, note the due dates when the bills arrive and then set a date for payment five to seven days ahead so you’ll definitely be able to mail your payment on time. To put more toward the balance, finally do a budget–this will help you identify the non-essential spending you’ve been doing so you can pay your outstanding credit balances faster.
Cut up cards, but don't close the account: Closing accounts—even those that have had zero balances for years—is a bad idea. Lenders want to see a long record of responsible credit management, and longtime accounts that you haven't touched in years may actually help your score because it shows you have some restraint.
No-doc or low-doc loans? Find another way: If you are self-employed or otherwise don’t have a lot of verifiable income, you may have the most trouble getting a loan. While banks and other lenders two years ago might have bent over backwards to lend to people with unverifiable income, that gravy train is mostly over now. If you do get a loan, you’ll pay far more for it than you would have before the credit markets blew up.
January 2009 — This column is produced by the Financial Planning Association, the membership organization for the financial planning community, and is provided by, a local member of FPA.
Friday, December 19, 2008
What if Your Employer Wants You to Retire Slowly or Come Back From Retirement? Be Ready with a Plan
Roughly 25 percent of the U.S. workforce is nearing retirement age, according to a recent survey by Hewitt Associates. This has important ramifications for the retirement many Americans will have in the future.
The consulting firm reported that out of 140 mid-size and large employers, 55 percent already had evaluated the impact that potential retirements could have on their organization, and 61 percent have developed or will develop special programs to retain targeted, near-retirement employees. Only one in five said that phased retirement is critical to their company's human resources strategy today, that number more than triples to 61 percent when employers look ahead 5 years.
What’s phased retirement? Conventionally, it’s the process of allowing employees who have reached 59 ½ to cut their hours while voluntarily receiving a pro-rata portion of their pension annuities. The company gets to keep its intellectual capital in place a little longer while the worker gets to segue into retirement gradually while accessing some of their retirement assets along the way. Provisions in the Pension Protection Act of 2006 made it easier for companies to create phased retirement strategies.
Hewitt said that in addition to retaining current employees, employers are reconsidering their policies toward rehiring retirees. While 45 percent indicated they currently have policies in place that limit the ability to rehire retirees, 46 percent said they were likely to review their rehiring policies in the future.
What kind of consideration process should you undertake if your employer offers this option? A good first step is to consult a financial planner such as a CERTIFIED FINANCIAL PLANNER™ professional to talk through the possibilities:
Envision how a phased retirement or return to your workplace would affect your life: If you’re reviewing your retirement planning at any age, it makes sense to ask yourself under what conditions you’d leave the workplace or return to it. If you were offered phased retirement, how would you deal with the cutback in responsibility and hours? Some people thrive on work relationships and might not know what to do with significant time outside the office. You obviously need to know based on current projections how much money you’re likely to gather from savings and other retirement resources. Then you need to consider how much money you’d be satisfied making in your post-retirement working life and for how many years you’ll earn that income.
Check what returning to work will do to your total retirement income: You obviously need to know based on current projections how much money you’re likely to gather from savings and other retirement resources. Then you need to consider how much money you’d be satisfied making in your post-retirement working life and for how many years you’ll earn that income. Early retirement transitions can have some adverse effects particularly where pensions are involved. But, if the place where you spent your career comes calling, you might get some attractive pension incentives to get people to come back. Talk these options over with both financial and tax experts.
Can you negotiate for benefits? If you’re investigating post-retirement employers, including your own, see what benefits you’ll qualify for, and take a close look at educational benefits that may allow you to upgrade your skills for free. If your company will pay you to go to school and give you the time to actually work on a degree, that might be a very nice incentive indeed.
Consider insurance issues: If you are a retiree returning to the workforce and you’re already receiving Medicare or covered by a “Medigap” policy, you may be able to lower your costs or improve your coverage by accepting group coverage as primary underwriter of their medical expenses. Since people over age 55 are generally the greatest users of the healthcare system, coverage issues are particularly important to run by a financial expert.
Keep saving: If you return to the workplace, see what you can do to take advantage of any new wrinkles in your employer’s 401(k) plan or any other tax-advantaged retirement savings benefits, particularly if they match your contribution. Don’t miss a chance to enhance your retirement savings, even if you’ve already retired once.
December 2008 — This column is produced by the Financial Planning Association, the membership organization for the financial planning community, and is provided by, a local member of FPA.
Wednesday, December 17, 2008
After a Turbulent 2008, Make Some New Year’s Resolutions for a Financially Healthy 2009
Money worries are the most common cause of holiday stress, according to Mental Health America. The 2006 study showed that parents are more stressed than all other demographic groups by finances and females are more likely than men to feel stressed by finances.
Money isn’t everyone’s No. 1 worry, but if it’s yours, why not consider the following New Year’s resolutions to improve your financial life?
Resolve:
1. To write down your goals: Have you ever written down the big things you want in life? Granted, all great dreams don’t cost money, but many of them do. Money buys freedom – to travel, to retire early, to start a business, to change careers. Putting goals in writing gives them a formality and a starting point for the planning you must do.
2. To evaluate your risk tolerance: One of the most beneficial things financial planners do is help you articulate your financial goals and establish (or re-establish) your tolerance for risk. With the market turbulence that’s marked 2008, many individuals would benefit from an analysis of how much risk they want – or need – to take given what they want to achieve with their money.
3. To track your spending: If you haven’t purchased financial accounting software or set up a reliable accounting method of your own, this is the year to do it. Diligent expense tracking is the first critical step to getting personal finances in order.
4. To consider advice on taxes and planning: Maybe you’ve always winged it with your taxes and considered your company 401(k) the ticket to your financial future. Chances are your planning is inadequate. Start getting references on good tax professionals and consider sitting down with a CERTIFIED FINANCIAL PLANNER™ professional to discuss your current retirement savings picture and what you can do to improve it.
5. To cut your credit card debt: If you can’t ever seem to get yourself completely out of credit card debt, make this the year to do it. Take inventory of your balances, figure out if you can consolidate them under your lowest-rate card, and resolve to pay off an amount that exceeds the minimum – on time, every month. Oh, and pay cash from now on.
6. To save: If you haven’t signed up for your employer’s 401(k) plan or begun a savings plan tailored for the self-employed, this is the year. And resolve to save at least 5-10 percent of your take-home pay based on your cash flow, and place the maximum in whatever retirement savings plans you qualify for.
7. Get ahead on your mortgage: This advice isn’t for everybody, but if you’ve paid off your credit cards by paying more than the minimum, you can apply the same principle to your mortgage payment. Every dollar you prepay will potentially save thousands in interest over the life of the loan if you plan to stay in your home long-term. In fact, if you make one extra payment a year, either at once or in equal monthly shares over the course of a year, you can cut at least five years of payments on a 30-year loan. Just don’t short your retirement investment plans to accomplish this.
8. Invest in yourself: If going back to college or taking specific coursework will help you advance in your career, plan to do it. If investing in a health club membership that you actually makes sense for your health as well as your insurance costs, do it.
9. To redefine the way you shop: If you’re an impulse shopper, break the habit in ’09. As a suggestion, get a legal pad and make that your centralized shopping list – use a single page for groceries, stock-up goods (it’s wise to start buying essentials in bulk if you can measure the savings), essential clothing or big expenditures you’ll need to make at specific times. Taking that pad with you wherever you spend money is a good way to keep a grip on your wallet as long as you don’t stray from the list.
10. To attack that miscellaneous column: Do you really need deluxe cable? How much are you paying for your Internet service? Can you wear a sweater around the house and lower the thermostat? In every budget, there are items that can be cut – or at least trimmed. Take a hard look at all your “essentials” to see how essential they really are. Aim for a target of at least 10 percent and start setting that money aside on a regular basis.
December 2008 — This column is produced by the Financial Planning Association, the membership organization for the financial planning community, and is provided by, a local member of FPA.
Money isn’t everyone’s No. 1 worry, but if it’s yours, why not consider the following New Year’s resolutions to improve your financial life?
Resolve:
1. To write down your goals: Have you ever written down the big things you want in life? Granted, all great dreams don’t cost money, but many of them do. Money buys freedom – to travel, to retire early, to start a business, to change careers. Putting goals in writing gives them a formality and a starting point for the planning you must do.
2. To evaluate your risk tolerance: One of the most beneficial things financial planners do is help you articulate your financial goals and establish (or re-establish) your tolerance for risk. With the market turbulence that’s marked 2008, many individuals would benefit from an analysis of how much risk they want – or need – to take given what they want to achieve with their money.
3. To track your spending: If you haven’t purchased financial accounting software or set up a reliable accounting method of your own, this is the year to do it. Diligent expense tracking is the first critical step to getting personal finances in order.
4. To consider advice on taxes and planning: Maybe you’ve always winged it with your taxes and considered your company 401(k) the ticket to your financial future. Chances are your planning is inadequate. Start getting references on good tax professionals and consider sitting down with a CERTIFIED FINANCIAL PLANNER™ professional to discuss your current retirement savings picture and what you can do to improve it.
5. To cut your credit card debt: If you can’t ever seem to get yourself completely out of credit card debt, make this the year to do it. Take inventory of your balances, figure out if you can consolidate them under your lowest-rate card, and resolve to pay off an amount that exceeds the minimum – on time, every month. Oh, and pay cash from now on.
6. To save: If you haven’t signed up for your employer’s 401(k) plan or begun a savings plan tailored for the self-employed, this is the year. And resolve to save at least 5-10 percent of your take-home pay based on your cash flow, and place the maximum in whatever retirement savings plans you qualify for.
7. Get ahead on your mortgage: This advice isn’t for everybody, but if you’ve paid off your credit cards by paying more than the minimum, you can apply the same principle to your mortgage payment. Every dollar you prepay will potentially save thousands in interest over the life of the loan if you plan to stay in your home long-term. In fact, if you make one extra payment a year, either at once or in equal monthly shares over the course of a year, you can cut at least five years of payments on a 30-year loan. Just don’t short your retirement investment plans to accomplish this.
8. Invest in yourself: If going back to college or taking specific coursework will help you advance in your career, plan to do it. If investing in a health club membership that you actually makes sense for your health as well as your insurance costs, do it.
9. To redefine the way you shop: If you’re an impulse shopper, break the habit in ’09. As a suggestion, get a legal pad and make that your centralized shopping list – use a single page for groceries, stock-up goods (it’s wise to start buying essentials in bulk if you can measure the savings), essential clothing or big expenditures you’ll need to make at specific times. Taking that pad with you wherever you spend money is a good way to keep a grip on your wallet as long as you don’t stray from the list.
10. To attack that miscellaneous column: Do you really need deluxe cable? How much are you paying for your Internet service? Can you wear a sweater around the house and lower the thermostat? In every budget, there are items that can be cut – or at least trimmed. Take a hard look at all your “essentials” to see how essential they really are. Aim for a target of at least 10 percent and start setting that money aside on a regular basis.
December 2008 — This column is produced by the Financial Planning Association, the membership organization for the financial planning community, and is provided by, a local member of FPA.
Tuesday, December 16, 2008
Helping Your Kids Recover after a Major Money Mistake
The average college graduate is $20,000 in debt, and today’s young adults are clearly exposed to more opportunities for self-directed financial disaster than any group in history.
Despite the current credit crunch, credit cards are still a common way most young people afford their new adult lifestyle, and rising costs on everything from rent to gasoline presents deeper challenges.
So it happens. Your kid gets in trouble with those credit cards, loses a job, or can’t find a job to pay the sum total of the rising debt he or she has. What can you do?
Make sure you can afford to help: It’s tough to say no to a financial bailout for your kid, but depending on the level of trouble he or she is in and your own financial responsibilities, you may need to. Here are some ideas:
Both sides should come clean: Remember that this situation is as much about the relationship as about money. The decision to help a family member with money problems requires understanding – lecturing tends to work not so well. But it’s right to encourage your kid to take a frank look at their financial situation and if they are in debt trouble of any kind, they should get help. It’s also important that you show confidence that they will make it through this.
Consider a joint talk with a financial planner: A financial planner, such as a CERTIFIED FINANCIAL PLANNER™ professional, can look at their financial situation and your own and give you both a road map on how to work through your child’s money problems and set up better money management techniques for after the crisis.
Should help be considered a gift? Actually, this is a good first question in any scenario where you offer help to a friend or family member. What happens if you don’t get the money back? For the sake of the relationship involved, it might make sense to think through that possibility. Would the potential loss of money injure you, and worse, will it injure the relationship? This is why it might be a very good idea to present this solution as a one-time gift – and then stick to it.
But if it’s a loan: You need to structure it professionally with clear consequences if it goes unpaid. Handled correctly, such a solution can offer benefits for the borrower and lender alike. Terms should be at arm’s length to meet IRS rules but it can still be more attractive than the child could obtain in the current marketplace. But there’s the potential for incredible downside. Unclear agreements can lead to missed payments or default. If the borrower dies suddenly, the lender’s investment may be lost if the agreement isn’t structured correctly. A properly executed promissory note is still an obligation of the estate, and may continue to be paid to an heir or other person or entity based on the terms as agreed. It is advisable that the loan agreement be in writing and properly executed to meet IRS rules.
Work with them on budgeting: It’s not going to be enough to solve the immediate problem. Even if you don’t use a financial planner to help you both work through the situation, it’s important to set a clear financial course for your child going forward. They obviously have to have a stake in the planning, but you’re going to have to provide guidance.
Encourage them to start an emergency fund: Even if your child only has a few cents in their pocket after settling their troubles, encourage them to start an emergency fund. Optimally, they’ll need to stash away three to six months’ worth of living expenses, and even if it’s just a small start, it’s part of the recovery effort.
December 2008 — This column is produced by the Financial Planning Association, the membership organization for the financial planning community, and is provided by, a local member of FPA.
Despite the current credit crunch, credit cards are still a common way most young people afford their new adult lifestyle, and rising costs on everything from rent to gasoline presents deeper challenges.
So it happens. Your kid gets in trouble with those credit cards, loses a job, or can’t find a job to pay the sum total of the rising debt he or she has. What can you do?
Make sure you can afford to help: It’s tough to say no to a financial bailout for your kid, but depending on the level of trouble he or she is in and your own financial responsibilities, you may need to. Here are some ideas:
Both sides should come clean: Remember that this situation is as much about the relationship as about money. The decision to help a family member with money problems requires understanding – lecturing tends to work not so well. But it’s right to encourage your kid to take a frank look at their financial situation and if they are in debt trouble of any kind, they should get help. It’s also important that you show confidence that they will make it through this.
Consider a joint talk with a financial planner: A financial planner, such as a CERTIFIED FINANCIAL PLANNER™ professional, can look at their financial situation and your own and give you both a road map on how to work through your child’s money problems and set up better money management techniques for after the crisis.
Should help be considered a gift? Actually, this is a good first question in any scenario where you offer help to a friend or family member. What happens if you don’t get the money back? For the sake of the relationship involved, it might make sense to think through that possibility. Would the potential loss of money injure you, and worse, will it injure the relationship? This is why it might be a very good idea to present this solution as a one-time gift – and then stick to it.
But if it’s a loan: You need to structure it professionally with clear consequences if it goes unpaid. Handled correctly, such a solution can offer benefits for the borrower and lender alike. Terms should be at arm’s length to meet IRS rules but it can still be more attractive than the child could obtain in the current marketplace. But there’s the potential for incredible downside. Unclear agreements can lead to missed payments or default. If the borrower dies suddenly, the lender’s investment may be lost if the agreement isn’t structured correctly. A properly executed promissory note is still an obligation of the estate, and may continue to be paid to an heir or other person or entity based on the terms as agreed. It is advisable that the loan agreement be in writing and properly executed to meet IRS rules.
Work with them on budgeting: It’s not going to be enough to solve the immediate problem. Even if you don’t use a financial planner to help you both work through the situation, it’s important to set a clear financial course for your child going forward. They obviously have to have a stake in the planning, but you’re going to have to provide guidance.
Encourage them to start an emergency fund: Even if your child only has a few cents in their pocket after settling their troubles, encourage them to start an emergency fund. Optimally, they’ll need to stash away three to six months’ worth of living expenses, and even if it’s just a small start, it’s part of the recovery effort.
December 2008 — This column is produced by the Financial Planning Association, the membership organization for the financial planning community, and is provided by, a local member of FPA.
Thursday, December 4, 2008
Taking Steps to Safer Investment Decisions in 2009
It’s tough to tell how much one investor can do alone to preserve their assets in 2009, particularly with unprecedented government intervention in world markets. But there are some general ideas to employ as markets and economies hopefully stabilize in the New Year:
Start with a plan – or review an old one: If you’ve worked with a good financial planner, you should be able to articulate your long-term investment goals by yourself. If you can’t discuss such goals in detail, it might be time to meet with a financial advisor including a CERTIFIED FINANCIAL PLANNER™ professional. Much of the riskiest investing, overbuying and panic selling during the late 1990s and early 2000s could have been avoided if individual investors had sought advice for achieving long-term specific goals such as retirement or a college education.
Check all your assets in banks: As a result of federal economic bailout legislation, the Federal Deposit Insurance Corporation (FDIC) temporarily raised the per-deposit account, per bank coverage level from $100,000 to $250,000 through Dec. 31, 2009. Certain retirement-related accounts carry $250,000 of FDIC coverage, but again, check in with your bank to make sure you’re covered, and if not, get the right advice for moving funds so you don’t incur an unexpected tax liability or fees.
Review your risk tolerance: Having a plan doesn’t mean make the plan and leave it to sit for years. You and your planner should decide when it’s time for a review of your investment goals and your feelings about them. An annual conversation makes sense if nothing’s going on, but when unusual circumstances in life or the markets take place, a phone call might be a good idea.
Check your credit: No one knows how long it might take to unravel the nation’s current credit situation. That’s why creditworthy individuals might want to delay looking for new lines of credit until things loosen, and it’s definitely a good time to schedule review of each of your latest credit reports at staggered intervals throughout the next year. Why? Because in tough economies and times of tight credit, identity theft might be on the rise, and you’ll need to make sure the information on your credit data is truly your own.
Pay attention to your cash: You should have an emergency fund of three to six months’ worth of living expenses in case your job situation goes south, but the market turbulence we’ve experienced also highlights the need to be somewhat liquid in your investment positions so you can take advantage of certain opportunities. Not every investment that’s lost value is necessarily a bad investment, and with careful study, you should be able to have cash on reserve so you can capitalize on legitimate opportunities.
Re-budget: It’s a good time to make a budget or re-assess the one you have. Though the federal government would love for consumers to start spending again to lift the economy, that doesn’t mean you have to jump in with both feet. Keep your spending smart, your debt low so it’s easier to set savings and investment priorities that will do you the most good when the economy and the market come back.
Check your retirement: How will the activity in the market affect your retirement timetable? You might want to continue working full-time or plan a phased-in approach as you continue to build assets. There is a great danger now that people may become either too risk-adverse or assume too much risk in planning for their retirement, and that’s why it’s wise to get advice.
December 2008 — This column is produced by the Financial Planning Association, the membership organization for the financial planning community, and is provided by, a local member of FPA.
Start with a plan – or review an old one: If you’ve worked with a good financial planner, you should be able to articulate your long-term investment goals by yourself. If you can’t discuss such goals in detail, it might be time to meet with a financial advisor including a CERTIFIED FINANCIAL PLANNER™ professional. Much of the riskiest investing, overbuying and panic selling during the late 1990s and early 2000s could have been avoided if individual investors had sought advice for achieving long-term specific goals such as retirement or a college education.
Check all your assets in banks: As a result of federal economic bailout legislation, the Federal Deposit Insurance Corporation (FDIC) temporarily raised the per-deposit account, per bank coverage level from $100,000 to $250,000 through Dec. 31, 2009. Certain retirement-related accounts carry $250,000 of FDIC coverage, but again, check in with your bank to make sure you’re covered, and if not, get the right advice for moving funds so you don’t incur an unexpected tax liability or fees.
Review your risk tolerance: Having a plan doesn’t mean make the plan and leave it to sit for years. You and your planner should decide when it’s time for a review of your investment goals and your feelings about them. An annual conversation makes sense if nothing’s going on, but when unusual circumstances in life or the markets take place, a phone call might be a good idea.
Check your credit: No one knows how long it might take to unravel the nation’s current credit situation. That’s why creditworthy individuals might want to delay looking for new lines of credit until things loosen, and it’s definitely a good time to schedule review of each of your latest credit reports at staggered intervals throughout the next year. Why? Because in tough economies and times of tight credit, identity theft might be on the rise, and you’ll need to make sure the information on your credit data is truly your own.
Pay attention to your cash: You should have an emergency fund of three to six months’ worth of living expenses in case your job situation goes south, but the market turbulence we’ve experienced also highlights the need to be somewhat liquid in your investment positions so you can take advantage of certain opportunities. Not every investment that’s lost value is necessarily a bad investment, and with careful study, you should be able to have cash on reserve so you can capitalize on legitimate opportunities.
Re-budget: It’s a good time to make a budget or re-assess the one you have. Though the federal government would love for consumers to start spending again to lift the economy, that doesn’t mean you have to jump in with both feet. Keep your spending smart, your debt low so it’s easier to set savings and investment priorities that will do you the most good when the economy and the market come back.
Check your retirement: How will the activity in the market affect your retirement timetable? You might want to continue working full-time or plan a phased-in approach as you continue to build assets. There is a great danger now that people may become either too risk-adverse or assume too much risk in planning for their retirement, and that’s why it’s wise to get advice.
December 2008 — This column is produced by the Financial Planning Association, the membership organization for the financial planning community, and is provided by, a local member of FPA.
Monday, November 24, 2008
As Worker Shortage Increases, So Will Incentives to Keep Boomers on the Job
For several years now, various agencies and academics have predicted a systemic labor shortage that will create a labor shortage over the next 25-30 years as the gap between Baby Boomers and entrants of college-educated workers widens due to the Boomers’ mass retirements.
There are plenty of arguments over this theory, but employers are acting now to keep older workers in their jobs just a little longer. Some Boomers are finding out their bosses don’t want them to retire or are willing to make interesting compromises to give them an incentive to stay on full- or part-time. In a survey of older workers in the July 2008 EBRI Issue Brief, published by the nonpartisan Employee Benefit Research Institute (EBRI), 29 percent of workers said that feeling truly needed for an assignment was one of the top three most effective draws for staying on the job. Other incentives that ranked highly include:
There are plenty of arguments over this theory, but employers are acting now to keep older workers in their jobs just a little longer. Some Boomers are finding out their bosses don’t want them to retire or are willing to make interesting compromises to give them an incentive to stay on full- or part-time. In a survey of older workers in the July 2008 EBRI Issue Brief, published by the nonpartisan Employee Benefit Research Institute (EBRI), 29 percent of workers said that feeling truly needed for an assignment was one of the top three most effective draws for staying on the job. Other incentives that ranked highly include:
- Receiving a full pension while working part time;
- A pay increase;
- Continuing company-subsidized health insurance at the same level as full-time workers, and
- Receiving a partial pension while working part time.
So what would convince you to stay on the job or un-retire if your employer comes calling again? It makes sense to talk over such issues with a tax professional and a financial planner. No matter what the incentives put in front of you, there are key issues to consider:
Make working retirement a variable in your planning: If you’re 5-10 years away from retirement and reviewing your retirement thinking so far, it makes sense to ask yourself under what conditions you’d return to the workplace. You obviously need to know based on current projections how much money you’re likely to gather from savings and other retirement resources. Then you need to consider how much money you’d be satisfied making in your post-retirement working life.
Consider how a return to the workplace will affect you personally and socially: If you’re 40, 50 or 60, working right now probably feels like breathing – when have you not worked? But it may not be the best option after a year or two out of the workplace.
How will it affect your taxes? Tax issues shouldn’t determine your ambitions and goals, but it’s important to consider the impact work-related income will have on your retirement. Many retirees find that it doesn’t take much post-retirement, work-related income to tip them into a higher bracket. Look for ways to control the taxes you’ll ultimately pay, including continued participation in qualified plans, IRAs, and other tax-favored accumulation vehicles and using annuity income to fill the gap between the beginning of the “post-retirement” period and the age when full Social Security benefits can be drawn without an offset for employment income.
Consider what earnings will do to all your retirement payments: If you are planning to work, consider not only the tax impact, but also how that might change the way you plan to draw on your retirement savings and investments as well as Social Security. If you are planning to work, it’s important you consider delaying receipt of those benefits for as long as you can.
Look at all the incentives: The top incentives luring experienced workers back to the workplace may be very attractive to you, or not attractive at all. Do some thinking about this. If you get the call, be prepared with a counterproposal of what would really convince you to come back.
Consider insurance issues: If a retiree returning to the workforce is already receiving Medicare or covered by a “Medigap” policy, they may be able to lower their costs or improve their coverage by accepting group coverage as primary underwriter of their medical expenses. Since people over age 55 are generally the greatest users of the healthcare system, coverage issues are particularly important to run by a financial expert.
Keep saving: If you return to the workplace, see what you can do to take advantage of your new employer’s 401(k) plan or any other tax-advantaged retirement savings benefit, particularly if an employer matches your contribution. Don’t miss a chance to enhance your retirement savings.
November 2008 — This column is produced by the Financial Planning Association, the membership organization for the financial planning community, and is provided by, a local member of FPA.
Friday, November 21, 2008
As Medical Expenses Rise, Don’t Miss Key Deductions
There are plenty of horror stories about uncovered medical expenses these days, and the truly horrifying part is that many of them belong to people who actually have health insurance. But anytime you or a family member is facing a health crisis or an unusual medical-related expense, it’s best to check to see if you might get a break from Uncle Sam.
A tax professional and a financial planner should be consulted to determine whether there are any tax issues or any ways to defer cost or save money at any part of the process. The Internal Revenue Service lets you deduct medical costs as long as they are more than 7.5 percent of your adjusted gross income (AGI). That means if your AGI is $50,000, you can deduct only those unreimbursed expenses that exceed $3,750.
Getting there requires some planning, which is why it’s so important to gather up every dime of unreimbursed medical, dental and vision care expenses and review it carefully.
Here are things people often miss:
Medically related travel: The IRS evaluates the standard cents-per-mile allowance each year for travel to and from medical treatments. Between Jan. 1-June 30, that rate was 19 cents a mile. Between July 1 and Dec. 31, the rate will rocket to 27 cents a mile.
Insurance payments from already taxed income: This includes the cost of long-term care insurance, up to certain limits based on your age.
Uninsured medical treatments: This includes what you spend for an extra pair of eyeglasses or set of contact lenses, false teeth, hearing aids or artificial limbs.
Rehab treatment: What you pay for alcohol or drug-abuse treatments can be noted on Schedule A.
Weight-loss to smoking cessation: If a doctor prescribes it, you’ll be able to deduct it.
Laser vision correction surgery: May be an allowable expense to deduct on your current taxes.
Doctor-recommended equipment and related expenses: If your doctor tells you that you need a humidifier installed on your heating and air conditioning system to help your breathing problems, you might be able to deduct all or part of the cost for the device as well as the additional energy costs to run it.
Some medical education costs: If you, your spouse or child have a chronic medical condition and you attend a conference to learn more about it, you can count admission and transportation expenses as a deduction, but not meals and lodging.
If you’re self-employed: You may deduct, as an adjustment to gross income, the full cost paid for medical insurance for you, your spouse and your dependents.
Lodging for out-of-town treatment: When accompanying a minor dependent to out-of-town medical treatment, hotel bills may be partially deductible.
Here are some less common expenses to watch:
Medically necessary home improvements or equipment: If you do a home improvement or bring in special equipment that’s considered medically necessary for you, your spouse or your dependents, you’ll be able to deduct the cost. These may include special entrance/exit ramps to your house, widening doorways, modifying kitchens or bathrooms, or adding a chairlift for the physically disabled. Because these improvements are not expected to add to the market value of the home, they are considered fully deductible. If the improvement increases the value of your home, only the amount of the expense that exceeds the increase in the property value of your home is deductible.
Nursing services: If you are paying out-of-pocket for a home-based nurse, these expenses may be deductible.
Lead paint removal: Lead paint is dangerous, and the money needed to remove the paint from a home is deductible.
November 2008 — This column is produced by the Financial Planning Association, the membership organization for the financial planning community, and is provided by, a local member of FPA.
A tax professional and a financial planner should be consulted to determine whether there are any tax issues or any ways to defer cost or save money at any part of the process. The Internal Revenue Service lets you deduct medical costs as long as they are more than 7.5 percent of your adjusted gross income (AGI). That means if your AGI is $50,000, you can deduct only those unreimbursed expenses that exceed $3,750.
Getting there requires some planning, which is why it’s so important to gather up every dime of unreimbursed medical, dental and vision care expenses and review it carefully.
Here are things people often miss:
Medically related travel: The IRS evaluates the standard cents-per-mile allowance each year for travel to and from medical treatments. Between Jan. 1-June 30, that rate was 19 cents a mile. Between July 1 and Dec. 31, the rate will rocket to 27 cents a mile.
Insurance payments from already taxed income: This includes the cost of long-term care insurance, up to certain limits based on your age.
Uninsured medical treatments: This includes what you spend for an extra pair of eyeglasses or set of contact lenses, false teeth, hearing aids or artificial limbs.
Rehab treatment: What you pay for alcohol or drug-abuse treatments can be noted on Schedule A.
Weight-loss to smoking cessation: If a doctor prescribes it, you’ll be able to deduct it.
Laser vision correction surgery: May be an allowable expense to deduct on your current taxes.
Doctor-recommended equipment and related expenses: If your doctor tells you that you need a humidifier installed on your heating and air conditioning system to help your breathing problems, you might be able to deduct all or part of the cost for the device as well as the additional energy costs to run it.
Some medical education costs: If you, your spouse or child have a chronic medical condition and you attend a conference to learn more about it, you can count admission and transportation expenses as a deduction, but not meals and lodging.
If you’re self-employed: You may deduct, as an adjustment to gross income, the full cost paid for medical insurance for you, your spouse and your dependents.
Lodging for out-of-town treatment: When accompanying a minor dependent to out-of-town medical treatment, hotel bills may be partially deductible.
Here are some less common expenses to watch:
Medically necessary home improvements or equipment: If you do a home improvement or bring in special equipment that’s considered medically necessary for you, your spouse or your dependents, you’ll be able to deduct the cost. These may include special entrance/exit ramps to your house, widening doorways, modifying kitchens or bathrooms, or adding a chairlift for the physically disabled. Because these improvements are not expected to add to the market value of the home, they are considered fully deductible. If the improvement increases the value of your home, only the amount of the expense that exceeds the increase in the property value of your home is deductible.
Nursing services: If you are paying out-of-pocket for a home-based nurse, these expenses may be deductible.
Lead paint removal: Lead paint is dangerous, and the money needed to remove the paint from a home is deductible.
November 2008 — This column is produced by the Financial Planning Association, the membership organization for the financial planning community, and is provided by, a local member of FPA.
Friday, November 14, 2008
Before the Holidays, Get Those Charitable Donations Lined Up
There’s a special sinking feeling as you approach Dec. 31 and realize you’ve done no tax planning whatsoever. That includes big issues like end-of-the-year investment decisions, and the smaller ones – like that stuff you no longer use piling up in the basement.
Charitable giving is an important part of tax planning at year end, so let’s look at the cash and noncash aspects of giving. It makes sense to contact a tax expert or financial planner to talk about what giving makes sense for you:
You have to itemize: Only individual taxpayers who itemize their deductions on Schedule A can claim a deduction for charitable contributions. This deduction is not available to people who choose the standard deduction, including anyone who files a short form (1040A or 1040EZ).
Get out the checkbook: Uncle Sam likes a record. To deduct any charitable donation of money, a taxpayer must have a bank record or a written communication from the charity showing the name of the charity and the date and amount of the contribution – and it definitely helps to have both. Bank records mean canceled checks, bank or credit union statements and credit card statements. Bank or credit union statements should show the name of the charity and the date and amount paid. Credit card statements should show the name of the charity and the transaction posting date. For payroll deductions, the taxpayer should retain a pay stub, Form W-2 wage statement or other document furnished by the employer showing the total amount withheld for charity, along with the pledge card showing the name of the charity. If you remember the IRS being satisfied with personal bank registers or scribbled notes to document the donation, they’re not anymore.
There are charities, and then there are charities: You need to make sure that organizations are qualified to make tax-deductible contributions to. IRS Publication 78, available online and at many public libraries, lists most organizations that are qualified to receive deductible contributions, but there’s an online version too. Just go to IRS.gov and type in “Search for Charities.” One key exception -- it’s important to note that churches, synagogues, temples, mosques and government agencies are eligible to receive deductible donations, even though they often are not listed in Publication 78.
Giving away property: If you give away property, including clothing and household items, get a receipt that includes a description of the donated property. If a donation is left at a charity’s unattended drop site, keep a written record of the donation that includes a description of the property and its condition. For any kind of vehicle, boat or airplane, the deduction is now limited to the gross proceeds from its sale. This rule applies if the claimed value of the vehicle is more than $500. Form 1098-C, or a similar statement, must be provided to the donor by the organization and attached to the donor’s tax return.
You can’t deduct junk: Under a provision of the 2006 Pension Protection Act, contributions of physical items must be in good used condition or better to qualify for a deduction. That means that you can’t deduct ripped or discolored clothing or appliances that don’t work. If you donate noncash property that is valued at more than $500, you need to report to the IRS how and when you acquired the property and your cost basis. You must file Form 8283, Noncash Charitable Contributions, for all donations of property valued at more than $500.
Use that digital camera: If you’re ever audited, it helps to have photographs or video of these items, and obviously, demand a detailed receipt.
Learn rules about giving away appreciated securities: This is where a financial planner or tax expert would come in handy. When you donate stocks or mutual fund shares you have held for more than one year, generally you may deduct the stocks’ current fair market value. Additionally, you avoid paying capital gains taxes on the appreciated value.
November 2008 — This column is produced by the Financial Planning Association, the membership organization for the financial planning community, and is provided by, a local member of FPA.
Charitable giving is an important part of tax planning at year end, so let’s look at the cash and noncash aspects of giving. It makes sense to contact a tax expert or financial planner to talk about what giving makes sense for you:
You have to itemize: Only individual taxpayers who itemize their deductions on Schedule A can claim a deduction for charitable contributions. This deduction is not available to people who choose the standard deduction, including anyone who files a short form (1040A or 1040EZ).
Get out the checkbook: Uncle Sam likes a record. To deduct any charitable donation of money, a taxpayer must have a bank record or a written communication from the charity showing the name of the charity and the date and amount of the contribution – and it definitely helps to have both. Bank records mean canceled checks, bank or credit union statements and credit card statements. Bank or credit union statements should show the name of the charity and the date and amount paid. Credit card statements should show the name of the charity and the transaction posting date. For payroll deductions, the taxpayer should retain a pay stub, Form W-2 wage statement or other document furnished by the employer showing the total amount withheld for charity, along with the pledge card showing the name of the charity. If you remember the IRS being satisfied with personal bank registers or scribbled notes to document the donation, they’re not anymore.
There are charities, and then there are charities: You need to make sure that organizations are qualified to make tax-deductible contributions to. IRS Publication 78, available online and at many public libraries, lists most organizations that are qualified to receive deductible contributions, but there’s an online version too. Just go to IRS.gov and type in “Search for Charities.” One key exception -- it’s important to note that churches, synagogues, temples, mosques and government agencies are eligible to receive deductible donations, even though they often are not listed in Publication 78.
Giving away property: If you give away property, including clothing and household items, get a receipt that includes a description of the donated property. If a donation is left at a charity’s unattended drop site, keep a written record of the donation that includes a description of the property and its condition. For any kind of vehicle, boat or airplane, the deduction is now limited to the gross proceeds from its sale. This rule applies if the claimed value of the vehicle is more than $500. Form 1098-C, or a similar statement, must be provided to the donor by the organization and attached to the donor’s tax return.
You can’t deduct junk: Under a provision of the 2006 Pension Protection Act, contributions of physical items must be in good used condition or better to qualify for a deduction. That means that you can’t deduct ripped or discolored clothing or appliances that don’t work. If you donate noncash property that is valued at more than $500, you need to report to the IRS how and when you acquired the property and your cost basis. You must file Form 8283, Noncash Charitable Contributions, for all donations of property valued at more than $500.
Use that digital camera: If you’re ever audited, it helps to have photographs or video of these items, and obviously, demand a detailed receipt.
Learn rules about giving away appreciated securities: This is where a financial planner or tax expert would come in handy. When you donate stocks or mutual fund shares you have held for more than one year, generally you may deduct the stocks’ current fair market value. Additionally, you avoid paying capital gains taxes on the appreciated value.
November 2008 — This column is produced by the Financial Planning Association, the membership organization for the financial planning community, and is provided by, a local member of FPA.
Friday, November 7, 2008
Veterans Set For a Big Benefits Upgrade in 2009
The Post- 9/11 Veterans Educational Assistance Act, which will become effective in August 2008, will position returning U.S. veterans for one of the biggest upgrades in post-military education benefits since the G.I. Bill was signed in 1944.
The act, signed by President Bush in June, pays up to the full cost of tuition and fees at the most expensive public school in the state in which a veteran enrolls. Some can get a free education if they qualify for the full amount, and it not only extends to the main four branches of the military, but also activated members of the National Guard and the Reserves. Best of all, the new program will allow returning servicemen and women with qualifying service to transfer their benefits to spouses or children if they already have a degree.
The current G.I. Bill pays only 70 percent of the cost of a public education and almost a third of the cost of a private-school education, and it currently costs vets $1,200 to enroll in the program.
Returning veterans might consider this benefits upgrade as part of an overall look at their financial status. A financial planning professional with expertise in military benefits can be a good first stop to re-start civilian life.
To qualify for the new benefits, veterans need to have served at least three months of active duty since 9/11, after which benefits are pro-rated according to months served, up to 36. For veterans who have served at least three years of active duty, they’ll qualify for 36 months worth of in-state tuition and fees, or four academic years. For those who serve 24 months, they’ll qualify for 80 percent of in-state tuition, plus 80 percent of the costs of books and housing. For those who leave the military due to a service-related disability and served at least 30 days of continuous active duty qualify for the maximum benefit. The program will cover in-state tuition and fees and give veterans a housing stipend pegged to area housing prices. It will also pay $1,000 a year toward books and up to $1,200 toward tutoring expenses as long as it’s for an in-state school. Out-of-state students will need to make up the difference between in-state and out-of-state costs.
There’s also the Yellow Ribbon G.I. Education Enhancement Program, where the federal government matches institutional grants offered by participating schools to vets who qualify for the maximum benefit.
Other things returning vets should remember:
Getting back to retirement planning: Military service counts toward vesting for all civilian retirement plans. And thanks to the Heroes Earned Retirement Opportunities (HERO) Act enacted in 2006, military and their families can actually put more money into their traditional or Roth IRA accounts. The act allows tax-free combat pay to be considered as earned income for determining the contribution amount for traditional and Roth IRAs. Before, a military person who earned only combat pay wasn’t allowed to contribute to either form of IRA.
Plan proper use of accumulated pay: For returning military receiving accumulated military pay or compensation from civilian employment, it’s tempting to take the money and blow it. It makes sense to sit down with a financial and tax adviser before a dime gets spent.
Understand tax issues: Activated and deployed military personnel receive special tax breaks at the federal and sometimes state level. Military income earned by soldiers in combat zones is tax-free and they don’t have to file taxes until 180 days after their return. Activated military personnel also are entitled to an extension on the period of time allowed for a tax break on the profits from the sale of a home. They’re also entitled to tax breaks on childcare assistance and certain travel. Nontaxable combat pay can also be considered for the Earned Income Credit.
Know your rights if problems occur: The Servicemembers Civil Relief Act of 2003 provides a variety of financial protections for active duty personnel. The act provides stays on civil litigation including bankruptcy and divorce and prevents wage attachments while military personnel are away. Coverage requires active duty confirmation from a commanding officer but expires 90 days after that status has been terminated. The law also makes it tougher – but not impossible – for landlords to evict military families for nonpayment of rent.
October 2008 — This column is produced by the Financial Planning Association, the membership organization for the financial planning community, and is provided by, a local member of FPA.
The act, signed by President Bush in June, pays up to the full cost of tuition and fees at the most expensive public school in the state in which a veteran enrolls. Some can get a free education if they qualify for the full amount, and it not only extends to the main four branches of the military, but also activated members of the National Guard and the Reserves. Best of all, the new program will allow returning servicemen and women with qualifying service to transfer their benefits to spouses or children if they already have a degree.
The current G.I. Bill pays only 70 percent of the cost of a public education and almost a third of the cost of a private-school education, and it currently costs vets $1,200 to enroll in the program.
Returning veterans might consider this benefits upgrade as part of an overall look at their financial status. A financial planning professional with expertise in military benefits can be a good first stop to re-start civilian life.
To qualify for the new benefits, veterans need to have served at least three months of active duty since 9/11, after which benefits are pro-rated according to months served, up to 36. For veterans who have served at least three years of active duty, they’ll qualify for 36 months worth of in-state tuition and fees, or four academic years. For those who serve 24 months, they’ll qualify for 80 percent of in-state tuition, plus 80 percent of the costs of books and housing. For those who leave the military due to a service-related disability and served at least 30 days of continuous active duty qualify for the maximum benefit. The program will cover in-state tuition and fees and give veterans a housing stipend pegged to area housing prices. It will also pay $1,000 a year toward books and up to $1,200 toward tutoring expenses as long as it’s for an in-state school. Out-of-state students will need to make up the difference between in-state and out-of-state costs.
There’s also the Yellow Ribbon G.I. Education Enhancement Program, where the federal government matches institutional grants offered by participating schools to vets who qualify for the maximum benefit.
Other things returning vets should remember:
Getting back to retirement planning: Military service counts toward vesting for all civilian retirement plans. And thanks to the Heroes Earned Retirement Opportunities (HERO) Act enacted in 2006, military and their families can actually put more money into their traditional or Roth IRA accounts. The act allows tax-free combat pay to be considered as earned income for determining the contribution amount for traditional and Roth IRAs. Before, a military person who earned only combat pay wasn’t allowed to contribute to either form of IRA.
Plan proper use of accumulated pay: For returning military receiving accumulated military pay or compensation from civilian employment, it’s tempting to take the money and blow it. It makes sense to sit down with a financial and tax adviser before a dime gets spent.
Understand tax issues: Activated and deployed military personnel receive special tax breaks at the federal and sometimes state level. Military income earned by soldiers in combat zones is tax-free and they don’t have to file taxes until 180 days after their return. Activated military personnel also are entitled to an extension on the period of time allowed for a tax break on the profits from the sale of a home. They’re also entitled to tax breaks on childcare assistance and certain travel. Nontaxable combat pay can also be considered for the Earned Income Credit.
Know your rights if problems occur: The Servicemembers Civil Relief Act of 2003 provides a variety of financial protections for active duty personnel. The act provides stays on civil litigation including bankruptcy and divorce and prevents wage attachments while military personnel are away. Coverage requires active duty confirmation from a commanding officer but expires 90 days after that status has been terminated. The law also makes it tougher – but not impossible – for landlords to evict military families for nonpayment of rent.
October 2008 — This column is produced by the Financial Planning Association, the membership organization for the financial planning community, and is provided by, a local member of FPA.
Short-term Long-term Care Insurance? Make Sure it’s a Good Idea for You
As the long-term care (LTC) insurance market has matured over the past 20 years, features have been added to the costly policies to make them more attractive. Even the IRS has even come on board, making a portion of the premiums tax-deductible. Yet with the tougher economy, insurers are looking for ways to get more consumers in the door – so they’re adjusting features to give people a break on cost.
Enter the “shorter-term” long-term care policy for individuals who are willing to play the odds. The main change in such policies is that they eliminate the “lifetime” feature in favor of a shorter time limit on benefits, usually between two and three years, currently the length of an average nursing home stay. These shorter-term plans can potentially cut the cost of average annual premiums in half, and if couples buy a combined policy, they potentially may cut the premium cost further.
The idea of lower-cost LTC insurance is certainly attractive, but it makes sense to get some advice and ask some very important questions before committing. A financial planning professional can help you assess how well prepared your finances are to sustain a serious long-term illness with a current national average of $70,000 in annual nursing home bills that would not otherwise be covered by insurance. In addition, ask:
What’s your health like? People in good health purchasing long-term care insurance in their 50s or younger usually get the most affordable deal in LTC insurance. But to some degree, your current health status is no guarantee that you’ll only be looking at 2-3 years of expenses in total. Keep in mind that 40 percent of long-term care is provided to individuals between the ages of 19 and 65, so the need for care can strike at any time and may do so more than once.
Are you female? Again, personal and family resources come into play here, but since women typically live longer than men – and they still earn less on average than men – women should take a heightened interest in providing for their long-term care safety net. Long-term care insurance might be a good solution given their other investments and their health history.
What types of services are covered? Over the course of time, LTC policies have evolved to place more emphasis on home-based care or assisted living, since most people would choose to be cared for in a familiar environment. However, it is important to review what all home-based as well as nursing home/assisted care center services may be covered. A basic LTC insurance policy pays for assistance with activities of daily living including eating, dressing, bathing, toileting, incontinence and transferring (bed to chair, etc.). Each policy lists the types of services that are covered under nursing home care and under home health care. Homemaker services may be covered. Also, if you are considering a policy with a fixed dollar benefit, compare all of these features with a lifetime policy.
What triggers coverage? Most LTC policies won’t go into effect until the covered individual can’t perform two tasks of daily living for a specific period of time or when that person needs substantial supervision related to cognitive impairment, such as Alzheimer’s disease.
What if I never want to go to a nursing home? The idea is to cover every eventuality. The best-designed LTC policies will pay the same amount of benefit whether care is received in a long-term care facility, an assisted living facility, an adult day care center or in the home. Some policies do offer reduced percentages for home health care versus nursing home care, but it’s a better idea to keep full percentages on home health care benefits since most people would rather stay in their homes. Discuss these options with a financial planner if you can, because the amount of your personal assets will be a factor here.
What’s the record of particular companies in this business? Over the past generation, more companies have gotten involved in the LTC insurance business, and it makes sense to see not only who the leaders are at the time you’re buying and what they’re offering, but how financially healthy these companies are and have been over the course of time. You’ve probably heard of insurance companies that have gone out of business and stranded customers. There’s no restriction on that happening with LTC providers, so check their ratings and financial history very carefully.
October 2008 — This column is produced by the Financial Planning Association, the membership organization for the financial planning community, and is provided by, a local member of FPA.
Enter the “shorter-term” long-term care policy for individuals who are willing to play the odds. The main change in such policies is that they eliminate the “lifetime” feature in favor of a shorter time limit on benefits, usually between two and three years, currently the length of an average nursing home stay. These shorter-term plans can potentially cut the cost of average annual premiums in half, and if couples buy a combined policy, they potentially may cut the premium cost further.
The idea of lower-cost LTC insurance is certainly attractive, but it makes sense to get some advice and ask some very important questions before committing. A financial planning professional can help you assess how well prepared your finances are to sustain a serious long-term illness with a current national average of $70,000 in annual nursing home bills that would not otherwise be covered by insurance. In addition, ask:
What’s your health like? People in good health purchasing long-term care insurance in their 50s or younger usually get the most affordable deal in LTC insurance. But to some degree, your current health status is no guarantee that you’ll only be looking at 2-3 years of expenses in total. Keep in mind that 40 percent of long-term care is provided to individuals between the ages of 19 and 65, so the need for care can strike at any time and may do so more than once.
Are you female? Again, personal and family resources come into play here, but since women typically live longer than men – and they still earn less on average than men – women should take a heightened interest in providing for their long-term care safety net. Long-term care insurance might be a good solution given their other investments and their health history.
What types of services are covered? Over the course of time, LTC policies have evolved to place more emphasis on home-based care or assisted living, since most people would choose to be cared for in a familiar environment. However, it is important to review what all home-based as well as nursing home/assisted care center services may be covered. A basic LTC insurance policy pays for assistance with activities of daily living including eating, dressing, bathing, toileting, incontinence and transferring (bed to chair, etc.). Each policy lists the types of services that are covered under nursing home care and under home health care. Homemaker services may be covered. Also, if you are considering a policy with a fixed dollar benefit, compare all of these features with a lifetime policy.
What triggers coverage? Most LTC policies won’t go into effect until the covered individual can’t perform two tasks of daily living for a specific period of time or when that person needs substantial supervision related to cognitive impairment, such as Alzheimer’s disease.
What if I never want to go to a nursing home? The idea is to cover every eventuality. The best-designed LTC policies will pay the same amount of benefit whether care is received in a long-term care facility, an assisted living facility, an adult day care center or in the home. Some policies do offer reduced percentages for home health care versus nursing home care, but it’s a better idea to keep full percentages on home health care benefits since most people would rather stay in their homes. Discuss these options with a financial planner if you can, because the amount of your personal assets will be a factor here.
What’s the record of particular companies in this business? Over the past generation, more companies have gotten involved in the LTC insurance business, and it makes sense to see not only who the leaders are at the time you’re buying and what they’re offering, but how financially healthy these companies are and have been over the course of time. You’ve probably heard of insurance companies that have gone out of business and stranded customers. There’s no restriction on that happening with LTC providers, so check their ratings and financial history very carefully.
October 2008 — This column is produced by the Financial Planning Association, the membership organization for the financial planning community, and is provided by, a local member of FPA.
Make Estate and Financial Planning a First Step After Divorce
After a marriage breaks up, about the last thing most people want to do is sit down with one more attorney. But no matter how old you are or whether you have kids, it’s important to consult both financial and legal experts to make sure you have an updated estate and financial plan for your new life once the divorce decree is final.
It’s also best to blend estate planning with financial planning post-divorce. If you weren’t working with a financial or estate planner during the divorce process, it’s time to do so now. The immediate months after a divorce can be disorienting – even if you don’t move, you are literally starting a new household that you will have to direct yourself, and that means new money issues to face.
This is why that the weeks immediately after a divorce are a good time to revisit short- and long-term spending and planning goals. Here’s a general road map to that process:
Start with a financial planner: Whether you plan to stay single, remarry or move in with a new partner, it’s good to get a baseline look at your finances as early as possible after the divorce is final. Expenses for the newly single can pile up quickly and unexpectedly, and a financial planning professional can help you review your new current spending and savings needs, compare strategies to achieve long-term goals like college and retirement and give you critical tools to protect your assets and loved ones if you die suddenly. Even if you have a good relationship with an ex-spouse and you addressed key issues for your children as part of the divorce proceedings, you need to revisit all these issues as a single individual before you move on to the next stage.
Talk with a trained estate planning attorney about wills and other critical documents: True, there are software programs and other kit solutions available to write basic wills, powers of attorney and certain simple trust agreements. But it makes sense to coordinate the activities of a financial planner with an estate planning attorney who can tailor an overall estate plan specific to your needs no matter how basic they might be right now. Even if you are very young with few assets, it makes sense to get some solid advice in this area so you’ll be able to manage such planning as you age and your finances get more complex. Particularly if you have kids, such planning is important if you plan to remarry and if you want to guarantee that specific assets are guaranteed for them when you die. In some cases where a spouse dies unmarried with minor children, an ex-spouse might automatically gain control of assets that were supposed to be earmarked for the kids. If you don’t want that to happen, you need to plan for that legally.
Make a guardianship game plan for your kids: It’s not enough to plan how money and assets will go to your children if you or your ex-spouse die suddenly or are incapacitated. If your children are minors, it’s particularly important to make sure you and your ex-spouse have a guardianship plan for their upbringing as well as any assets they may inherit. You might completely trust your ex-spouse’s new husband, wife or partner to raise your kids if your ex-spouse dies before you, but there may be others better-equipped to do so – spell that out now. Also, if there are any trust or wealth issues that will become effective for your children once they reach adulthood, it’s also important to establish an efficient legal structure for distributing those assets as well as appointing a trustee in a will to train and guide your kids through that financial transition.
Plan for special needs kids: If one of your children is disabled and is expected to need lifetime assistance of some type, then you should consult a qualified attorney to help you create a special needs trust. It will help protect your child from having to give up any public or social financial assistance as well as access to special doctors, medical help, special prescriptions or treatments that could be taken away if they were to personally inherit assets that would disqualify them for these programs. When such assets are held in trust, they are not counted as the child’s assets. The advantage is that those inherited assets may still be used to support their housing or other personal living needs.
Get solid protection in place: Most people focus on what may happen to their health insurance if they get divorced, but insurance issues like life, property/casualty and disability insurance are sometimes put on the back burner. If you’re newly single, you definitely need the best health coverage you can afford for yourself and your kids, but life, property, liability and disability insurance becomes doubly important, particularly if you failed to address those needs during the divorce. Even if your ex-spouse is cooperative with financial support, it’s wise to insure yourself as if they weren’t. A financial planner should be able to go through those options in detail.
Review all your investments for primary ownership and beneficiary information: Even if you were advised correctly to change the names on assets you and your spouse were dividing between yourselves, it still makes sense post-divorce to review that the names are indeed correct on those assets, and most important, to make sure all beneficiary information is correct.
October 2008 — This column is produced by the Financial Planning Association, the membership organization for the financial planning community, and is provided by, a local member of FPA.
Wednesday, November 5, 2008
Giving the Gift of a Financial Planner
The holiday season should be about giving, but at the end of the season, most people can’t help but think it’s all about spending and money out the door. What would happen if you and other family members considered a different gift this holiday season – the chance to build your financial awareness with a trained expert?
Financial planning is an investment. It costs money. But its potential returns are manifold – a chance to get a handle on current problems with spending, debt and investing and a long-term opportunity to diffuse fear of financial issues by learning everything possible about them. It doesn’t matter if you are a single working individual or a family with kids still at home – the right financial planner can be a long-term partner in re-educating everyone in a household about money and the right ways to handle it.
For many people financial planning is a reaction to an emergency, such as a divorce, the death of a spouse or a sudden windfall. But in making the decision to do financial planning as an ongoing part of your life, you have the chance to fully review all your spending and investing decisions and maybe allow each of your family members to do individualized planning that will set them on a good course for life.
Here are some questions you should ask a prospective financial planner:
What training do you have? Find out how long the planner has been in practice and what kind of certifications they hold. A CERTIFIED FINANCIAL PLANNER™ professional is someone with a minimum of three years who has completed a comprehensive course of study at a college or university offering a financial planning curriculum approved by CFP Board. CFP® practitioners must pass a comprehensive two-day, 10-hour CFP® Certification Examination that tests their ability to apply financial planning knowledge in an integrated format. Based on regular research of what planners do, the exam covers the financial planning process, tax planning, employee benefits and retirement planning, estate planning, investment management and insurance.
What services do you offer? What a financial planner offers is based on credentials, licenses and areas of expertise. Generally, financial planners cannot sell insurance or securities products such as mutual funds or stocks without the proper licenses, or give investment advice unless registered with state or federal authorities. Some planners offer financial planning advice on a range of topics but do not sell financial products. Others may provide advice only in specific areas such as estate planning or on tax matters.
How do you charge for your services? Professional planners will provide you with a financial planning agreement that spells out the services they provide and how they’ll be compensated. Payment can happen in one of several ways:
Financial planning is an investment. It costs money. But its potential returns are manifold – a chance to get a handle on current problems with spending, debt and investing and a long-term opportunity to diffuse fear of financial issues by learning everything possible about them. It doesn’t matter if you are a single working individual or a family with kids still at home – the right financial planner can be a long-term partner in re-educating everyone in a household about money and the right ways to handle it.
For many people financial planning is a reaction to an emergency, such as a divorce, the death of a spouse or a sudden windfall. But in making the decision to do financial planning as an ongoing part of your life, you have the chance to fully review all your spending and investing decisions and maybe allow each of your family members to do individualized planning that will set them on a good course for life.
Here are some questions you should ask a prospective financial planner:
What training do you have? Find out how long the planner has been in practice and what kind of certifications they hold. A CERTIFIED FINANCIAL PLANNER™ professional is someone with a minimum of three years who has completed a comprehensive course of study at a college or university offering a financial planning curriculum approved by CFP Board. CFP® practitioners must pass a comprehensive two-day, 10-hour CFP® Certification Examination that tests their ability to apply financial planning knowledge in an integrated format. Based on regular research of what planners do, the exam covers the financial planning process, tax planning, employee benefits and retirement planning, estate planning, investment management and insurance.
What services do you offer? What a financial planner offers is based on credentials, licenses and areas of expertise. Generally, financial planners cannot sell insurance or securities products such as mutual funds or stocks without the proper licenses, or give investment advice unless registered with state or federal authorities. Some planners offer financial planning advice on a range of topics but do not sell financial products. Others may provide advice only in specific areas such as estate planning or on tax matters.
How do you charge for your services? Professional planners will provide you with a financial planning agreement that spells out the services they provide and how they’ll be compensated. Payment can happen in one of several ways:
- Salaried planners are actually employees of a firm, and you help pay their salaries through fees or commissions you agree to pay.
- Direct fees to the planner through an hourly rate, a flat rate, or on a percentage of your assets and/or income.
- Commissions paid by a third party from the products sold to you based on the planner’s recommendations. Commissions are typically a percentage of the amount you invest based on those recommendations.
- A hybrid of fees and commissions based on services. A planner may charge a fee for designing a comprehensive financial plan and occasional visits and calls to review it, while commissions might come from products they sell that you invest in. (Planners may offset some fees in exchange for commissions.)
Do you have any potential conflicts of interest? It may seem like a rude question, but the best planners expect this one and are prepared to make disclosure. Obviously, if a planner profits from the sale of investment products to you, she must spell that out.
How do you feel about teaching and training? One of the primary benefits of having a financial planner is education about the moves you are making or may potentially make. Don’t view a planning relationship as tossing someone your finances so you won’t have to deal with them anymore. As long as you’re paying for their services, make sure you get a long-term education out of it.
November 2008 — This column is produced by the Financial Planning Association, the membership organization for the financial planning community, and is provided by, a local member of FPA.
Thursday, October 23, 2008
Be Careful About Picking Beneficiaries for Your IRAs and 401(k)s
Inheriting IRA or 401(k) proceeds from a friend or relative can be a potentially huge windfall, but it can also be a sizable tax headache. For both the giver and the recipient, it’s worth getting some advice.
Bank accounts, stocks, real estate and life insurance proceeds generally pass to heirs free of income tax. However, inherited retirement benefits can be a different story. Beneficiaries have to pay ordinary income tax on distributions from 401(k) plans and traditional IRAs after they are inherited. (You don’t see the same problem with Roth IRAs – their benefits can be free of income tax to your heirs if all tax requirements are met.)
A financial planning professional or an experienced tax advisor can work with you based on your personal tax and estate circumstances to determine an inheritance strategy that is best for you. Some general guidelines:
Spouses are the first stop: Federal law dictates that your surviving spouse must be the primary beneficiary of your 401(k) plan benefit unless your spouse signs a waiver to redirect those funds. Even with a traditional IRA, naming the spouse as the primary beneficiary may be an appropriate option. Should the surviving spouse have his or her own IRA, this approach would allow them to simply roll over the assets from the decedent’s IRA into their own. Furthermore, if the surviving spouse is significantly younger than the deceased, the surviving spouse would receive the added benefit of stretching out distributions from the IRA until he or she turns 70 1/2. The stretch-out allows the assets to continue to grow on a tax- deferred basis, thereby maximizing asset value and delaying any income tax due.
When might you want to rethink a spousal beneficiary? When the surviving spouse’s estate is expected to be large enough to exceed the applicable exclusion amount for federal and state estate taxes. The applicable exclusion amount after allowable expenses is $2 million in 2008 and above $3.5 million in 2009. It should also be noted that in addition to federal estate tax, many states impose a state tax on estates with considerably lower asset levels (often anything over $1,000,000). Proper estate planning may alleviate this issue.
What about non-spousal beneficiaries? Today, non-spouse beneficiaries may be able to roll over all or a part of inherited 401(k) benefits to an inherited IRA. A recent change in IRS regulations still requires non-spousal heirs to withdraw a minimum amount from Inherited IRA assets every year, but it’s based on the age of the recipient rather than the age of the decedent.
Establishing a Stretch IRA: Due to recent changes in the minimum distribution law, taxpayers may now establish IRAs designed to stretch out the time period over which a non-spouse beneficiary (i.e. child) is required to take minimum distributions from an inherited IRA. Proper use of this vehicle may potentially allow for continued growth of tax-deferred earnings over multiple generations and can have a substantial impact on the future value of the family portfolio.
Naming trusts or charities as beneficiaries. Placing IRA assets in trust can have substantial advantages but can be complex. It should only be considered after receiving tax advice from a competent professional. It is particularly important to get tax advice related to this issue. Trusts can be complex instruments with which to bequeath assets, and even though naming a charity as one’s primary beneficiary will not affect distributions in your lifetime, it could affect the tax consequences for non-charitable beneficiaries who are sharing the same asset upon your death.
October 2008 — This column is produced by the Financial Planning Association, the membership organization for the financial planning community, and is provided by, a local member of FPA.
Bank accounts, stocks, real estate and life insurance proceeds generally pass to heirs free of income tax. However, inherited retirement benefits can be a different story. Beneficiaries have to pay ordinary income tax on distributions from 401(k) plans and traditional IRAs after they are inherited. (You don’t see the same problem with Roth IRAs – their benefits can be free of income tax to your heirs if all tax requirements are met.)
A financial planning professional or an experienced tax advisor can work with you based on your personal tax and estate circumstances to determine an inheritance strategy that is best for you. Some general guidelines:
Spouses are the first stop: Federal law dictates that your surviving spouse must be the primary beneficiary of your 401(k) plan benefit unless your spouse signs a waiver to redirect those funds. Even with a traditional IRA, naming the spouse as the primary beneficiary may be an appropriate option. Should the surviving spouse have his or her own IRA, this approach would allow them to simply roll over the assets from the decedent’s IRA into their own. Furthermore, if the surviving spouse is significantly younger than the deceased, the surviving spouse would receive the added benefit of stretching out distributions from the IRA until he or she turns 70 1/2. The stretch-out allows the assets to continue to grow on a tax- deferred basis, thereby maximizing asset value and delaying any income tax due.
When might you want to rethink a spousal beneficiary? When the surviving spouse’s estate is expected to be large enough to exceed the applicable exclusion amount for federal and state estate taxes. The applicable exclusion amount after allowable expenses is $2 million in 2008 and above $3.5 million in 2009. It should also be noted that in addition to federal estate tax, many states impose a state tax on estates with considerably lower asset levels (often anything over $1,000,000). Proper estate planning may alleviate this issue.
What about non-spousal beneficiaries? Today, non-spouse beneficiaries may be able to roll over all or a part of inherited 401(k) benefits to an inherited IRA. A recent change in IRS regulations still requires non-spousal heirs to withdraw a minimum amount from Inherited IRA assets every year, but it’s based on the age of the recipient rather than the age of the decedent.
Establishing a Stretch IRA: Due to recent changes in the minimum distribution law, taxpayers may now establish IRAs designed to stretch out the time period over which a non-spouse beneficiary (i.e. child) is required to take minimum distributions from an inherited IRA. Proper use of this vehicle may potentially allow for continued growth of tax-deferred earnings over multiple generations and can have a substantial impact on the future value of the family portfolio.
Naming trusts or charities as beneficiaries. Placing IRA assets in trust can have substantial advantages but can be complex. It should only be considered after receiving tax advice from a competent professional. It is particularly important to get tax advice related to this issue. Trusts can be complex instruments with which to bequeath assets, and even though naming a charity as one’s primary beneficiary will not affect distributions in your lifetime, it could affect the tax consequences for non-charitable beneficiaries who are sharing the same asset upon your death.
October 2008 — This column is produced by the Financial Planning Association, the membership organization for the financial planning community, and is provided by, a local member of FPA.
Monday, October 13, 2008
Open Enrollment on the Way:Should You Take Advantage of Your Company’s Health Savings Account Option?
Fall is approaching, which means for many workers that open enrollment is coming. Open enrollment is a specified time period during which companies let their employees sign up for various health and retirement savings benefits as well as smaller benefit options that may be unique to a company.
One of those options might be a health savings account, also known as an HSA. Health savings accounts were created as part of the Medicare Modernization Act of 2003. Anyone under age 65 who buys a qualified high-deductible health plan (HDHP) can open an HSA. However, you can still own an HSA and be covered under other types of insurance policies that cover liability, dental, vision and long-term care needs.
Why are companies offering these plans? Because a high-deductible health plan option allows the company to save money while giving their employees a shot at lower or stable monthly individual and family premiums. And it’s important to know that in 2007, the contribution rules on these plans changed. Previously, the maximum contribution was calculated as the lesser of the deductible of the high-deductible health plan or a specific indexed amount. Now, the limit is the maximum annual contribution alone.
What’s the big advantage to choosing one? Contributions are made to HSAs on a pretax basis where they are allowed to grow tax-deferred and spent out on a tax-free basis for medical expenses. HSA contributions could be made through a company’s cafeteria plan if allowed by the company’s cafeteria plan document, and can potentially save FICA/Medicare taxes on the contribution along with federal and state taxes.
Yet there are some critical things to know before you make the switch:
Get some individual financial advice first: The enticement of potentially lower or more stable health insurance premium increases may lead you to jump immediately, but it makes sense to speak to your tax professional as well as a financial adviser about how an HSA should fit into your overall financial strategy.
Understand your 2008 HSA limits: The following cover the maximum contributions you can place in an HSA and the minimum and maximum out-of-pocket amounts for an HDHP insurance plan:
One of those options might be a health savings account, also known as an HSA. Health savings accounts were created as part of the Medicare Modernization Act of 2003. Anyone under age 65 who buys a qualified high-deductible health plan (HDHP) can open an HSA. However, you can still own an HSA and be covered under other types of insurance policies that cover liability, dental, vision and long-term care needs.
Why are companies offering these plans? Because a high-deductible health plan option allows the company to save money while giving their employees a shot at lower or stable monthly individual and family premiums. And it’s important to know that in 2007, the contribution rules on these plans changed. Previously, the maximum contribution was calculated as the lesser of the deductible of the high-deductible health plan or a specific indexed amount. Now, the limit is the maximum annual contribution alone.
What’s the big advantage to choosing one? Contributions are made to HSAs on a pretax basis where they are allowed to grow tax-deferred and spent out on a tax-free basis for medical expenses. HSA contributions could be made through a company’s cafeteria plan if allowed by the company’s cafeteria plan document, and can potentially save FICA/Medicare taxes on the contribution along with federal and state taxes.
Yet there are some critical things to know before you make the switch:
Get some individual financial advice first: The enticement of potentially lower or more stable health insurance premium increases may lead you to jump immediately, but it makes sense to speak to your tax professional as well as a financial adviser about how an HSA should fit into your overall financial strategy.
Understand your 2008 HSA limits: The following cover the maximum contributions you can place in an HSA and the minimum and maximum out-of-pocket amounts for an HDHP insurance plan:
- Maximum HSA contribution: $2900 for individual, $5800 for families
- Minimum HDHP deductible: $1100 self-only coverage, $2200 family coverage*
- Annual out-of-pocket maximum: $5600 self-only coverage, $11200 family coverage
- If you are 55 or older and your HDHP is in effect, you are eligible to deposit catch-up contributions, and in 2008, the additional amount is $900.
Know the difference between an HSA and a medical flexible spending account (FSA): One important difference is that HSAs allow balances to be rolled over from year-to-year, growing on a tax-free basis as long as they’re used for medical expenses. On the other hand, Medical FSAs require that the money you contribute each year to be spent by year-end (or a brief grace period if provided by the plan) or you’ll lose it. But in certain cases, such as when you incur medical expenses early in a year, you can be reimbursed by your FSA without having to fully fund it – so FSAs might be a bit more flexible in this regard. Get help from your tax or human resources professional.
Know whether you can have both: In some situations, you may be able to have both an HSA and an FSA. If your FSA provides for limited reimbursement for items not covered by your health insurance plan (such as dental, vision or wellness care), you can use an HSA for items covered by your plan and your FSA for medical expenses that are not. Obviously, double-check this with an expert.
Know penalties for non-medical withdrawals: You’ll get hit with a 10 percent penalty, plus any withdrawals will be taxed at ordinary income tax rates. After age 65, you’re free to use the funds for any purpose without penalty, but non-medical withdrawals are still taxable.
You may actually use an IRA to fund an HSA on a one-time basis: The rules let individuals roll over money from an IRA once so people can use the money tax-free for medical expenses, but the amount of the rollover is limited to the HSA maximum contribution for the year minus any contributions already made.
September 2008 — This column is produced by the Financial Planning Association, the membership organization for the financial planning community, and is provided by, a local member of FPA.
Preparing Your Finances for a New Baby
Your parents might have mentioned at least a couple of times while you were growing up how wonderful and expensive you were. The bottom line? Bringing a child up is a tremendous financial responsibility, and it’s better to plan in advance than deal with a surprise down the line.
The U.S. Department of Agriculture compiles an annual survey on what it costs to raise a child from birth through age 17. In 2007, in the lowest income group, expenses ranged from a total of $7,830 to $8,830 for a two-child, husband-wife household to between $15,980 to $17,500 for families in the highest income group. Once again, those are the latest annual figures – so if you held spending unrealistically static for the next 17 years, the cost of raising a child in the lowest income group would range from $133,110 to $150,110 adjusted for inflation. In the highest income group, that range would be between $271,660 to $297,500.
Note that we haven’t begun to discuss college yet. Across the United States, the average tuition and fees at four-year private institutions in 2007-2008 was $23,712, representing a 6.3 percent increase of more than $1,400 over 2006-2007, according to College Board’s 2007-2008 Annual Survey of Colleges. At public four-year colleges, the average in-state tuition and fees averaged $6,185, a 6.6 percent increase.
All parenthood comes at a price. But with the help of a financial planner you can create a strategy to afford kids from birth through college. Here are some key points in that process:
Create or review your financial plan: A financial plan is a written set of goals, strategies and a timeline for accomplishing those goals. For many individuals, it may be the first time they seriously examine their financial future in such black-and-white terms. But it starts with the basics – determining how much you really have in savings, debt, insurance and investments. Your financial planner can also help you understand how much the additional costs of raising a child, including the startup costs of birth or adoption will affect all those numbers. A financial plan should be reviewed with every major change in life, and having kids is certainly one of those landmark events.
Get rid of your high-interest debt: A major decision like having a child is a good reason to take a “clean slate” approach to debt. Before you can build a reserve fund, it’s wisest to pay off your credit cards first.
Make sure you have a will: If you die without a will, you won’t have a clear path of guardianship for your child, nor will your assets be properly directed to support that child. Any good adoption attorney will insist that you develop and file a will as part of the adoption process.
Check your insurance options: In today’s health insurance environment, the addition of a child to a policy can bring tremendous additional cost – sometimes without the guarantee of the best coverage. Check with your employer or your independent insurance provider to make sure you have the best coverage for what you can afford. Also look into medical savings accounts with your financial planner if you decide to take a high-deductible policy to keep premiums low.
Know your tax advantages: If you’re adopting, you can get some tax relief. In tax year 2008, parents will be entitled to a one-time tax credit of $11,650 per eligible child. There are income limits – the credit disappears for individuals with modified adjusted gross income of between $174,730 for individuals and $214,730 for couples.
Ask what your employer can do for you: If you’re working at a family friendly company, it’s often considerably easier to apply for leaves of absence or work schedules that make more sense when you’ve got a young child at home. Some companies may offer to reimburse some portion of their workers’ adoption expenses.
Build your reserve fund: When a baby, toddler or older child comes into the house, money flies out the door at a velocity most childless people have never seen. Children always cost money and sometimes unpredictably so, but it pays to build your savings before they arrive so you won’t overuse your credit cards. Also, it’s possible that a birth mother’s health may take a turn during the pregnancy, so that’s an expense that needs to be anticipated.
September 2008 — This column is produced by the Financial Planning Association, the membership organization for the financial planning community, and is provided by, a local member of FPA.
The U.S. Department of Agriculture compiles an annual survey on what it costs to raise a child from birth through age 17. In 2007, in the lowest income group, expenses ranged from a total of $7,830 to $8,830 for a two-child, husband-wife household to between $15,980 to $17,500 for families in the highest income group. Once again, those are the latest annual figures – so if you held spending unrealistically static for the next 17 years, the cost of raising a child in the lowest income group would range from $133,110 to $150,110 adjusted for inflation. In the highest income group, that range would be between $271,660 to $297,500.
Note that we haven’t begun to discuss college yet. Across the United States, the average tuition and fees at four-year private institutions in 2007-2008 was $23,712, representing a 6.3 percent increase of more than $1,400 over 2006-2007, according to College Board’s 2007-2008 Annual Survey of Colleges. At public four-year colleges, the average in-state tuition and fees averaged $6,185, a 6.6 percent increase.
All parenthood comes at a price. But with the help of a financial planner you can create a strategy to afford kids from birth through college. Here are some key points in that process:
Create or review your financial plan: A financial plan is a written set of goals, strategies and a timeline for accomplishing those goals. For many individuals, it may be the first time they seriously examine their financial future in such black-and-white terms. But it starts with the basics – determining how much you really have in savings, debt, insurance and investments. Your financial planner can also help you understand how much the additional costs of raising a child, including the startup costs of birth or adoption will affect all those numbers. A financial plan should be reviewed with every major change in life, and having kids is certainly one of those landmark events.
Get rid of your high-interest debt: A major decision like having a child is a good reason to take a “clean slate” approach to debt. Before you can build a reserve fund, it’s wisest to pay off your credit cards first.
Make sure you have a will: If you die without a will, you won’t have a clear path of guardianship for your child, nor will your assets be properly directed to support that child. Any good adoption attorney will insist that you develop and file a will as part of the adoption process.
Check your insurance options: In today’s health insurance environment, the addition of a child to a policy can bring tremendous additional cost – sometimes without the guarantee of the best coverage. Check with your employer or your independent insurance provider to make sure you have the best coverage for what you can afford. Also look into medical savings accounts with your financial planner if you decide to take a high-deductible policy to keep premiums low.
Know your tax advantages: If you’re adopting, you can get some tax relief. In tax year 2008, parents will be entitled to a one-time tax credit of $11,650 per eligible child. There are income limits – the credit disappears for individuals with modified adjusted gross income of between $174,730 for individuals and $214,730 for couples.
Ask what your employer can do for you: If you’re working at a family friendly company, it’s often considerably easier to apply for leaves of absence or work schedules that make more sense when you’ve got a young child at home. Some companies may offer to reimburse some portion of their workers’ adoption expenses.
Build your reserve fund: When a baby, toddler or older child comes into the house, money flies out the door at a velocity most childless people have never seen. Children always cost money and sometimes unpredictably so, but it pays to build your savings before they arrive so you won’t overuse your credit cards. Also, it’s possible that a birth mother’s health may take a turn during the pregnancy, so that’s an expense that needs to be anticipated.
September 2008 — This column is produced by the Financial Planning Association, the membership organization for the financial planning community, and is provided by, a local member of FPA.
Blended Families Should Plan Early for Their Kids’ College Financial Aid
Finances for blended families – one of the fastest-growing demographics in the United States – can be complicated. The needs of stepchildren may fall into direct conflict with one’s own, and aside from the many financial entanglements that result from previous marriages or partnerships, college planning is a particular area where couples should seek help.
Why? Because more than 60 percent of all college students now apply for some form of financial aid, and those numbers will go higher as college costs rise. Add that to the sometimes conflicted financial goals within families with children from previous marriages and relationships, and a couple’s financial picture may become a source of considerable strain based on negotiations with former spouses over the welfare of children from previous relationships.
That’s why both tax experts and financial planners should be consulted before couples remarry – to address the host of financial issues blended families face. In particular, individuals with children from a previous marriage should think through how college will be funded for their own children as well as any children born after the remarriage.
Here are several key issues that soon-to-be remarried individuals should consider with regard to planning for college:
Divorce agreements should spell out college support: By the time individuals are planning to remarry, a divorce may be long past. But in cases where a divorce may be pending before remarriage, couples may have the opportunity to secure adequate college support if state laws allow that as part of a settlement. Even if the children are very young, support agreements should always look ahead to the years when the child heads to college, not only to make sure that the education is properly funded, but to spell out those financial responsibilities for each divorcing spouse.
Prenuptial agreements should too: Even if a remarrying couple has very small children, it makes particular sense to look to the future when the children of this blended family are heading for school. In many situations, it’s common for remarrying spouses to shoulder the full burden of the blended family’s college expense. But a prenuptial agreement – a financial agreement made by two individuals planning to marry -- can do two things. It can look into the past and document existing agreements with ex-spouses to pay for college expenses and other financial support and it can look into the future to do contingency planning for the kids in case this marriage ends up in divorce as well.
Why? Because more than 60 percent of all college students now apply for some form of financial aid, and those numbers will go higher as college costs rise. Add that to the sometimes conflicted financial goals within families with children from previous marriages and relationships, and a couple’s financial picture may become a source of considerable strain based on negotiations with former spouses over the welfare of children from previous relationships.
That’s why both tax experts and financial planners should be consulted before couples remarry – to address the host of financial issues blended families face. In particular, individuals with children from a previous marriage should think through how college will be funded for their own children as well as any children born after the remarriage.
Here are several key issues that soon-to-be remarried individuals should consider with regard to planning for college:
Divorce agreements should spell out college support: By the time individuals are planning to remarry, a divorce may be long past. But in cases where a divorce may be pending before remarriage, couples may have the opportunity to secure adequate college support if state laws allow that as part of a settlement. Even if the children are very young, support agreements should always look ahead to the years when the child heads to college, not only to make sure that the education is properly funded, but to spell out those financial responsibilities for each divorcing spouse.
Prenuptial agreements should too: Even if a remarrying couple has very small children, it makes particular sense to look to the future when the children of this blended family are heading for school. In many situations, it’s common for remarrying spouses to shoulder the full burden of the blended family’s college expense. But a prenuptial agreement – a financial agreement made by two individuals planning to marry -- can do two things. It can look into the past and document existing agreements with ex-spouses to pay for college expenses and other financial support and it can look into the future to do contingency planning for the kids in case this marriage ends up in divorce as well.
Get advice about the FAFSA: On January 1 each year, students become eligible to file their Free Application for Federal Student Aid (FAFSA) online for the coming school year. This process can get very confusing in blended families because parent-child relationships determine the level of financial responsibility and the potential for aid. In some cases, it might be wiser for a couple not to marry while children are still receiving financial aid in college, so it is critical for divorced spouses to get advice on this issue. Colleges will determine financial aid packages on the custodial and financial profile of parents based on any of the following parental scenarios:
- The parent who had provided the majority financial support to the child during the past 12 months.
- The parent who supplied more than half of the child’s support and pledges to continue to do so.
- The parent who has legal custody of the child.
- The parent who claimed the child as a dependent on their taxes.
- The parent who provided the most financial support to the child during the most recent calendar year.
- The parent with the greater documented income.
College financial aid is tough enough for traditional families to navigate. A financial planner with specific expertise in navigating financial aid issues as well as your overall financial picture can help you make the best choices in preparing your application for college aid.
Remember that if the parent who provided financial support was single, divorced or widowed but has since remarried, the student will have to submit the stepparent’s financial information. While this information will be evaluated, it doesn’t legally obligate the stepparent to provide financial assistance.
September 2008 — This column is produced by the Financial Planning Association, the membership organization for the financial planning community, and is provided by, a local member of FPA.
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